Easy DIY Doorway Trim Upgrade
If you want to give your doorway a more custom, high-end look, this simple DIY trim upgrade is the perfect project! Here’s how I did it step by step.
For reference, the doorway is 94.5″ tall by 42″ wide.
From this…

To this…

Shop the room here: You can find the materials I used on my Lowe’s storefront. (Please note that these are affiliate links, and I earn a small commission when you make a purchase through them. Your support is greatly appreciated!)
For reference: Sliding Door Dimensions: 93.5” tall x 105” wide
Materials You’ll Need:
- 1×3 Pine Board
- 1×2 Pine Board
- 1×4 Pine Board
- Sherwin-Williams Pure White Semi-Gloss
- Wood filler
- Paintable caulk:
- Brad nails
- Painters Tape
- Paint roller
- Clamp
- Wood Glue
Tools You’ll Need:
- jig-saw
- Brad nailer: Makes assembly faster.
- Miter Saw
- Tape Measure
- Nail Punch
- Caulk Gun
- Safety Glasses
- Oscillating Tool
- Utility Knife and puller (to remove baseboard)
Step 1: Remove the Baseboard
First, I removed the existing baseboard around the doorway to make space for the new trim. Using a multi-tool made this step quick and efficient. I left the baseboard along the interior of the doorway for now, as I plan to replace it with a 6-inch board in the future. Once done, I filled any gaps and sanded the area for a smooth, polished finish.


Step 2: Paint the boards
I painted the boards first to save me time later. I did have to do touchups to hole fills.
Step 3: Attach Door Trim to the Sides
I measured the height of the door opening from the floor to the top of the doorway, then cut my 1×4 boards to size with a miter saw.
I also maintained a consistent 1/4-inch reveal along the inside of the doorway. You can do this by marking 1/4-inch increments up the opening as a guide, or by using a laser level. Just make sure the reveal line stays level all the way up before fastening the trim.
Using a brad nailer, I secured the trim to the wall. Ensure that they are level. I used a laser level to do this.

Step 4: Pre-build the Top Trim
Start with the 1×4 board and lay it flat.
Next, add the 1×2 boards to the top and bottom edges of the 1×4. Lay them on their sides and make sure each side overhangs the 1×4 by 7/8″.
Then place the 1×3 board on top to finish the layered look. It should also overhang the 1×2 by 7/8″ on each side to create that classic Craftsman detail.
Use wood glue between each layer, then clamp everything tightly so it holds while you work. Once in place, secure each layer using 3/4″ brad nails.

Step 5: Attach the Top Trim to the Wall
Mark 7/8″ in from each end of the 1×2 board. These marks will show you where to line it up over the 1×4 vertical boards. I used a laser level to ensure everything was aligned. Finally, I secured the trim to the wall with 2-inch brad nails.


Step 6: Fill, Sand, and Caulk
Once everything was attached, I filled the nail holes, sanded everything smooth with 220-grit sandpaper, and caulked any gaps for a seamless finish.
I didn’t use hardwood on the inside of the doorway—just sanded it down and painted it, and it turned out looking great.




Step 7: Paint
I used Sherwin-Williams Pure White in semi-gloss.
And that’s it! A simple upgrade that makes a big difference. I spent less than $40 (though the cost will vary depending on your doorway size and the supplies you have on hand—I already had caulk, paint, tools, and sandpaper).
Ready to tackle your next project? Let’s go—you’ve got this!
– Audra

Did you leave the original casing on top of the door?
This didn’t have casing prior but my front door did. I removed all the casing prior to building this trim.