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Mudroom / Under The Stairs Drop Zone DIY

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Are your kids tossing their shoes under the stairs? I decided to take action and turn this messy area into a functional space that also serves as our storm shelter. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you achieve a similar transformation!

From this…

To This!

Shop the room here: You can find most of the materials at Lowe’s, with additional decor items available Walmart and Amazon. I’ve also provided separate links for your convenience below. (Please note that these are affiliate links, and I earn a small commission when you make a purchase through them. Your support is greatly appreciated!)

My Lowe’s Storefront

Amazon Storefront – Mudroom Items

Materials You’ll Need:

Optional Decor:

Tools You’ll Need:

Tip: Don’t forget to grab coffee and set up a fan—things can get warm in this space!


Step 1: Plan

  1. Measure Twice: Take accurate measurements of the area and the materials you need.
  2. Buy Materials: Use online calculators provided by hardware stores for quantities. Remember, many stores will cut wood to your specifications, saving you time and hassle.


Step 2: Demo

  1. Remove Baseboards: Use a utility knife to score along the baseboard. This separates the caulk and paint from the board. Then, carefully use a trim puller to pop them off.
  2. Fill Holes: Patch any holes in the wall with spackle. Once dry, sand the area until smooth. Clean up any debris for a tidy workspace.

Step 3: Install Panels

Locate Studs: Use your stud finder to mark where the studs are located.

Attach Panels: Cut the tongue-and-groove panels to size (I opted for 4-foot lengths for easier handling). Use your nail gun to secure them to the wall, ensuring they are both secure and level. Additionally, I later decided to extend the remaining paneling up to the ceiling on the right side for a seamless look.

I worked my way from top down because of the way the closet was.

Step 4: Build the Base

Create Pocket Holes: Use the Kreg jig to drill pocket holes into your 2x4s. This allows for a cleaner connection between pieces.

Cut 2x4s: Measure and cut your 2x4s for the base. Make sure to measure each side individually, as they may not be the same length.

How to Use the Kreg Jig

  1. Adjust the Jig: Set the jig according to the thickness of your wood (e.g., 2x4s are about 1.5 inches thick). Follow the guides on the jig for adjustments.
  2. Clamp the Jig: Secure the Kreg Jig to your work surface or use the built-in clamp to hold it in place.
  3. Prepare the Wood: Measure and mark where to place pocket holes, generally about 6 inches from the ends of the wood. Insert the wood into the jig, ensuring a snug fit.
  4. Drill Pocket Holes: Using a drill with the Kreg Jig drill bit, drill into the guide hole until you feel it stop. This indicates the correct depth. Repeat for multiple holes as needed.
  5. Assemble the Wood Pieces: Position the pieces you want to join and insert Kreg screws into the pocket holes. Tighten until snug, being careful not to over-tighten to avoid splitting the wood.
  6. Finish Up: Ensure the pieces are flush and aligned. Fill pocket holes with wood filler or plugs if desired for a clean finish.

Step 5: Add the Top of the Base

Cut Plywood: Measure and cut your plywood for the top of the base. (remember in the beginning I mentioned that I had my local Lowe’s cut the plywood for me the length and then 16″ wide. )

Secure the Top: Attach it using brad nails or wood glue. If you already know the paint color, consider painting before assembly to avoid difficult spots later.

Step 6: Build the Top of the Bench

If you’re following my method and working backward, start by relocating the studs you identified earlier. If you’re starting fresh, take a moment to locate the studs now. Position the back piece and secure it to the stud using a 3.5-inch screw. Pre-drill the hole with a drill bit, and I recommend using two screws per stud for added stability. For extra support, I added a 2×4 under each corner—this isn’t strictly necessary, but it’s a good precaution if you have kids who like to jump on everything! Use a level to ensure that each piece is perfectly aligned.

Next, build the base by creating a 2×4 platform similar to the one you made for the bottom. Make sure to position your cross beams where you want the dividers. For instance, I needed five bins, so I spaced the beams 11 inches apart. These cross beams will serve as attachment points for your dividers. Don’t forget to drill your pocket holes before you start assembling everything.

(Note: For the front part of the frame, I opted to drill straight in instead of using pocket holes, as I found it challenging to access them with my drill. I used wood filler and a sander to conceal those spots.)

Step 7: Create Dividers and Attach Plywood to the Top of the Bench

  1. Measure Height: Determine the height needed for your dividers between the base and the bench.
  2. Cut Dividers: Use leftover plywood to cut dividers slightly taller than needed. Wedge them between the base and the top 2×4 for a snug fit. You can use wood glue for added stability. I used two dividers per 2×4, resulting in a thickness of 1 inch instead of 1/2 inch. This additional thickness allowed me to later incorporate a 1×2, giving the whole structure a more polished, built-in appearance.

Step 8: Build the Shelf

To attach the shelf, use wood glue along with shorter brad nails for a strong bond. Adding corbels will provide extra support and enhance the overall look.

Position the Shelf

Place the 1×6 board on top of the tongue-and-groove panels, ensuring it rests on the corners and on the 1×3.5 board. I applied wood glue both on the top of the tongue-and-groove boards and in between for added stability.

For the corbels, I trimmed them from the bottom to match the width of the shelf. After positioning them, I secured everything with wood glue and shorter brad nails that I already had on hand. 

Step 9: Finishing Touches

Caulk and Fill: Inspect the project and fill any gaps or holes with wood filler. Apply caulk along the back to prevent pests from entering. Be sure to push in any exposed nails from the nail gun using a nail punch for a clean finish.

Add Coving, Lattice Strips & 1x2s: Measure and attach coving in the corners for a smooth transition. Use lattice strips to create decorative edges, and incorporate 1x2s to cover the dividers, enhancing the overall appearance and giving it a more built-in look.

Step 10: Install Baseboards

Reattach Baseboards: Install new or repurposed baseboards around the area to achieve a polished finish. I chose to go with new ones because I felt they complemented the overall design better than my previous baseboards.

Step 11: Paint and Decorate

  1. Paint the Area: Choose a color that complements your home. Apply paint to the entire space, yes even the baseboards.
  2. Hang Decor: Add a mirror and hooks, and style the space with photo frames and pillows for a personal touch.

You Did It!

Congratulations on transforming your under-the-stairs area! It’s now functional, organized, and stylish. Ready to dive into your next project? Let’s go!

You got this!

– Audra

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