Easy DIY Door Casing Upgrade
If you want to give your doorway a more custom, high-end look, this simple DIY trim upgrade is the perfect project! Here’s how I did it step by step.
For reference, the sliding door is 106″ wide by 94″ tall.
From this…
To this…
Shop the room here: You can find the materials I used on my Lowe’s storefront. I’ve also provided separate links for your convenience below. (Please note that these are affiliate links, and I earn a small commission when you make a purchase through them. Your support is greatly appreciated!)
For reference: Sliding Door Dimensions: 93.5” tall x 105” wide
Materials You’ll Need:
- 1×3 Pine Board
- 1×2 Pine Board
- 1×4 Pine Board
- Sherwin-Williams Ultra White
- Wood filler: For filling holes and imperfections.
- Paintable caulk: To seal gaps and create a clean finish. (The painters tape needs to be 1.5″ thick to match the thickness of the wood).
- Brad nails: Various sizes for different parts of the build.
- Painters Tape
- Paint roller
Tools You’ll Need:
- jig-saw
- Nail gun: Makes assembly faster.
- Miter Saw
- Tape Measure: This one lock.
- Nail Punch
- Caulk Gun
- Safety Glasses
- Oscillating Tool
- Utility Knife
Step 1: Remove the Baseboard
First, I removed the existing baseboard around the doorway to make room for the new trim. A multi-tool made this step quick and easy.
Step 2: Attach Door Trim to the Sides
I measured the height of the door opening from the floor to the top of the drywall and cut my 1×4 boards using my miter saw. Since I wasn’t hitting studs, I used liquid nails along with my nailer to attach the boards securely to the wall.
Step 3: Pre-build the Top Trim
To match the window casing in my living room, I layered my top trim like this:
• 1×2 board at the bottom and top of the 1×4 (middle)
1×2 boards are 7/8th longer than the than the 1×4
• 1×3 board on top of that (this is 1/2 inch longer than the 1×2)
NOTE: I caulked this part off the wall. I learned my lesson with my living room windows.
Step 4: Attach the Top Trim to the Wall
I applied liquid nails first, then secured it with 2” brad nails. My board was slightly short since I was using leftover wood, but it still worked perfectly!
Step 5: Fill, Sand, and Caulk
Once everything was attached, I filled in the nail holes, sanded smooth (220 grit) and caulked any gaps for a seamless look.
Step 6: Paint
For a clean paint job, you can tape the edges or use a folder as a quick shield while painting the sides.
And that’s it! A simple upgrade that makes a huge impact. I spent less than $80.
Ready to dive into your next project? Let’s go! You got this!
– Audra
